Do We Really Need A Hair Typing System?

In the early 1990s, Andre Walker, Oprah’s hair stylist, created a hair type classification system.  The system was initially created to sell his hair care products, but was then adopted more widely to categorize and describe different types of hair.  The system has not been met without controversy.

This hair type system classifies hair into 12 different categories.  The first step in categorizing hair is to determine how straight or curly/coily one’s hair is.  Type 1 hair is very straight, Type 2 hair is wavy, Type 3 hair is curly, and Type 4 hair is coily.  Type 2 hair is wavy at the roots and often curly at the ends,  Type 3 hair often has spirals and curls.  Type 4 hair typically has tight coils that are in a z-shape or zig-zag pattern.  Each type is then broken down into 3 subtypes: A, B, C.  A is generally fine hair.  B is medium thickness hair and C is coarse hair.  This system is often utilized in characterizing natural hair.

Although it is difficult to put human traits neatly into a box, there are some benefits to having a hair typing system.  Firstly, this system helps to accurately and specifically describe hair.  It also provides a universal language that hair stylists and consumers can utilize when dealing with hair care and scalp care.  Moreover, different types of hair have different hair care needs.  For example, people with straight hair (Type 1 hair) are more likely to deal with oily hair.  This is because it is easier for the oil produced in the hair follicles in the scalp to traverse their way down strands of straight hair than it is to do so for curly or coily hair.  As such, people with Type 3 or Type 4 hair are more likely to deal with dry hair.  This can lead to increased concerns about hair damage and fragility.  These differing hair concerns then lead to different methods of hair hygiene and maintenance.  Someone with straight hair likely has to wash their hair more often than someone who is experiencing dry hair.  Someone with dry hair may also need to be concerned about moisturizing their hair and scalp.

There are some downsides to a hair classification system.  In nature, traits often are on a continuous spectrum.  Someone’s hair may not always completely meet the definition of a specific hair type.  Additionally, an individual may actually have a combination of hair types.  There have also been concerns that this hair typing system creates a hierarchy of hair types, when in reality, there is no hair type that is better than another.

Further innovation is needed in how we define hair types.  For the meantime, the Andre Walker Classification System provides a useful tool in guiding hair care based on specific needs.  As with other elements of personal care, treatment regimens must be individualized.  At the end of the day, the specific hair type a person has does not really matter, but can help to provide guidance about some of the issues someone with a specific hair type may have.  There is certainly more work to be done.

If you would like to learn more about the different hair care needs for the different hair types and how to address concerns that are commonly seen with specific hair traits, check out HairDays.  This app is an informative guide that discusses common hair concerns, such as damaged hair, dry hair, frizzy hair, and oily hair, among others.  It also explains how these different conditions can be ameliorated.  The app also provides a tracking and logging tool so you can chart your progress.